Storm Manufacturing Group

Mini Adaptor 2000 Series - Brochure

Model 2000 Disassembly Instructions and Troubleshooting 1 Index Page Solenoid Disassembly Instructions 2,3 Removing Adaptor from Anti-siphon Body 4,5 Adaptor Disassembly Instructions 6-9 Troubleshooting • Valve will not close. 10-12 • Water weeps past valve. 13 • Valve will not open. 14 • Water leaks out around manual bleed valve. 15 • Water leaks out around flow-control stem. 16 • Water leaks out between adaptor top and bottom. 16 Parts, Sub-Assemblies, and Repair Kits 17 1 Solenoid Disassembly Instructions 1. Unscrew and remove retaining nut from solenoid post and slide coil and U-frame off of solenoid post. 2. Using a flathead screwdriver, unscrew and remove solenoid post from top of adaptor. 2 Solenoid Disassembly Instructions 3. Solenoid plunger will drop out of plunger tube as post is removed from solenoid cavity. Solenoid cavity. The center port is the exhaust port. The other port connects the solenoid cavity to the diaphragm chamber. 3 Removing the Adaptor from the Anti-siphon Body 1. After shutting off water supply to the adaptor, remove solenoid retainer nut, coil, and U-frame from solenoid post. 2. Using channel locks, remove anti-siphon cap from valve body. 4 Removing the Adaptor from the Anti-siphon Body 3. Unscrew manual bleeder a few turns to relieve pressure from the top of the diaphragm. 4. Apply a wrench to hex portion (neck) of adaptor and unscrew it from the valve body. 5 Adaptor Disassembly Instructions 1. Use a 7/16” wrench to apply to shaft and 9/16” wrench to unscrew seat disc retaining nut. 2. Remove seat disc, disc holder and spring from the shaft. 6 Adaptor Disassembly Instructions 3. Using a 7/16” wrench, remove bolts from top of adaptor. 4. Lift top straight up until metering rod clears the top of the diaphragm shaft. It may be necessary to pry the top loose from lower housing using a flathead screwdriver. 7 Adaptor Disassembly Instructions 5. Lift and remove diaphragm assembly from lower diaphragm housing. 6. To disassemble diaphragm assembly, use a 7/16” wrench to hold shaft, and 9/16” wrench to remove nut at top of diaphragm shaft. 8 Adaptor Disassembly Instructions 7. To remove flow control stem from top, first use a flathead screwdriver to turn the flow control stem as many turns as possible in clockwise direction. Next, unscrew the flow-control stem from the underside of the top. 9 Troubleshooting PROBLEM: Valve will not close. CAUSE #1: Malfunctioning solenoid. Solenoid plunger is unable to seal exhaust port due to debris in solenoid chamber or plunger being stuck in plunger tube and unable to drop. SOLUTION: Remove debris from solenoid cavity and/or clean plunger tube. Replace stem and plunger assembly if necessary. PROBLEM: Valve will not close. CAUSE #2: Debris in valve body or debris embedded in rubber seat disc prevents rubber seat disc from seating onto brass seat in anti-siphon body. SOLUTION: Remove adaptor from anti-siphon body and remove debris. If rubber seat disc is pitted, disassemble it from shaft and flip it over or replace if necessary. 10 Troubleshooting PROBLEM: Valve will not close. CAUSE #3: Open manual bleeder. If no water exhausts from manual bleeder, the likely cause is a buildup of minerals on the metering rod that is preventing water from entering the diaphragm chamber. SOLUTION: Remove top of adaptor and clean the metering rod using emery cloth PROBLEM: Valve will not close. CAUSE #4: Torn Diaphragm. SOLUTION: Disassemble valve and replace diaphragm . 11 Troubleshooting PROBLEM: Valve will not close. CAUSE #5: Insufficient flow. Irrigation valves and adaptors have a minimum flow requirement in order to close. The larger the valve size, the greater the minimum flow requirement . A ¾” 2000 adaptor has a minimum flow requirement of about 5 GPM. SOLUTION: Sometimes, reducing the flow by turning the flow control stem clockwise as much as possible without adversely affecting coverage will enable the valve to close. If it works, do not readjust the flow control. If it does not work, then increase flow by adding sprinkler heads or emitters to the system. If that is not possible, then it is recommended that a model 850-DI be used in place of the model 2000. This will necessitate replacing the anti-siphon valve body as well. The model 850-DI, shown is photo at right, has no minimum flow requirement. It was designed to be used in low flow drip irrigation systems. 12 Troubleshooting PROBLEM: Water weeps past the valve and seeps out of the lowest head. CAUSE #1: Small debris under rubber seat disc or pitted rubber seat disc. SOLUTION: Remove adaptor from anti-siphon body and clean debris. If the rubber seat disc is pitted, remove it, flip it over and reassemble, or replace seat disc. PROBLEM: Water weeps past the valve and seeps out of the lowest head. CAUSE #2: If there is no evidence of debris or pits in the rubber seat disc, the likely cause is that the nut at top of diaphragm assembly is loose allowing water to seep past the threads of the diaphragm shaft. This eventually causes the threads to erode and the problem becomes worse over time. SOLUTION: Replace diaphragm assembly or replace adaptor. 13 Troubleshooting PROBLEM: Valve will not open when energized. CAUSE #1: Solenoid is not receiving power. SOLUTION: Place your fingers around the solenoid coil to see if it is receiving power. There should be a slight vibration and humming. If not, verify that there is output at the controller by using a volt meter. If there is electrical output (24 VAC) then the problem is either a bad coil or broken wire. Check the coil by disconnecting solenoid lead wires from valve wires and measure ohms with an ohm meter. A reading of 24 to 27 ohms means the coil is OK. If reading is 0 or infinity, replace coil. PROBLEM: Valve will not open or only opens part way when energized. CAUSE #2: Enlarged inlet orifice at bottom of diaphragm shaft is allowing water to enter diaphragm chamber at a rate greater than it can exit through solenoid exhaust port. Because the inlet orifice is brass, it can enlarge over time in high pressure/velocity conditions. SOLUTION: Replace diaphragm assembly (which includes diaphragm shaft) or replace adaptor. 14 Troubleshooting PROBLEM: Water leaks out around manual bleed valve. CAUSE #1: Damaged o-ring on bleed screw. SOLUTION: Replace bleed screw. PROBLEM: Water leaks out around manual bleed screw. CAUSE #2: Bleed screw cannot be screwed all the way down due to disappearing threads in opening. This is caused by a transfer of metal from threads on bleed screw to female threads in opening. SOLUTION: Using a 5/6”-24 tap, rethread opening and replace bleed screw with a new one. 15 Troubleshooting PROBLEM: Water leaks out between adaptor and anti-siphon body. CAUSE: Damaged body fiber washer. SOLUTION: Replace damaged fiber body washer PROBLEM: Water leaks out around flow control stem. CAUSE: Damaged o-ring on the flow-control stem. SOLUTION: Remove flow-control stem from bonnet and replace o-ring. Apply silicone grease to the o-ring before re-assembling it into the bonnet. 16 Parts, Sub-Assemblies, and Repair Kits Solenoid Coil (24 VAC): 16008 Solenoid Stem and Plunger Assembly: 16010-2A Solenoid Assembly (24 VAC): 16200 Manual Bleed Screw (includes o-ring): 15013 Flow-Control Stem: (includes o-ring) : ¾” & 1”-20006 Diaphragm: ¾” & 1”-16055 Fiber Body Washer: ¾”-15053, 1”-15054 Repair Kits: ¾”-17314, 1”-17315 Diaphragm Assembly (includes diaphragm, plates, and shaft): ¾”-17316, 1”-17317 17
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